Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas

Crafted by master jewellers in Jaipur, the luxury jewellery of Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas is inspired by Indian culture, nature and heritage

It sometimes feels as if the gleaming soul of India can be detected in the exquisite jewellery produced by Jaipur’s iconic Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas thanks to the artful eye of creative designer Yash Agarwal, who has designed pieces influenced by Indian architecture, great Indian women and Indian animals. The company originated in a small store at Johri Bazaar in Jaipur and now has showrooms in New Delhi and on Jaipur’s Mirza Ismail Road. It was founded by Dr Nawal Agarwal, a zoologist. His son Yash Agarwal maintains the family business with his brothers, having studied in the US and had his initial training at Tiffany’s before bringing his unique vision to the brand.

Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas is now one of the oldest luxury jewellery brands in India, famed for its ability to craft unique ornaments that fuse elements of Indian heritage with contemporary cuts and colours using the finest materials and outstanding craftspeople. The company makes rings, necklaces, bracelets, earrings and bridal jewellery, combining traditional art with modern styles, inspired by aspects of Indian culture, heritage and tradition. “Nature, culture, architecture, and everything that surrounds me, touches my heart at different levels,” says Yash. “With each collection, comes a different theme. I research the subject first, and then derive the essence of what I should make. Sketching, designing and deciding on what gems I should use then follows.”

Some of these ranges can take years to develop, but over time a series of themed brands have emerged. There is Hunar, which translates as “talent” and showcases traditional Indian jewellery in bold and vibrant styles that are suited for Indian weddings and other special occasions. More discreet is the Ardrishya range. Ardrishya means “invisible” in Sanskrit and this covers jewellery which embeds precious stones in discreet settings where the gold cannot be seen at all. Aranya is the name given to a series of piece that celebrate the natural world, something that can take the form of a bracelet formed like a peacock or an elephant ring. It could be seen as a tribute to founder Nawal Agarwal’s initial training in zoology.

Noor diamonds are for the woman who will accept only the best gemstone, while Amer, named after the Amer fort, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, celebrates the extravagant architecture of Rajasthan, taking motifs and elements from the building and crafting them into a series of immaculate pieces. Arks is for those subtle and ethereal pieces that seem to transcend time, combining the ancient, medieval and contemporary in extraordinary style, while Adaa is opulent jewellery that has been inspired by six iconic women from Indian history, drawing on their beauty, style, grace and fiery spirit. Finally there is the dramatic Delhi Dunbar, a dazzling selection of jewels inspired by royal coronations.

“I choose the materials appropriate for the collection that I want to make,” says Yash. “Sometimes, I get gemstones specially cut for a particular collection, and at other times, I select the gems first and then work on the jewellery line. Currently, I am obsessed with rose gold, rubies and pink diamonds.”

Each piece in every range is carefully designed by experts who see jewellery as a celebration of the individual, aiming to identify the inner beauty of the wearer with every creation. They are made with as much care as they are designed, using expert and perfectionist craftspeople who have taken years to reach the exceptional levels of skill required by Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas.