Gem of an idea

Atelier Allure

Atelier Allure by Thomas Hauser is a “treasure lab” founded by a master jeweller who creates and crafts limited-edition collections and unique, bespoke pieces

“I love making dreams come true and, to achieve this, I need to be in tune with my client,” says jeweller Thomas Hauser. “Only by helping them to articulate their vision can I make it a reality.” Described by his peers at the Gem Genève trade fair as “a craftsman, metallurgist, engineer, explorer and concept artist in one person”, he creates truly distinctive jewellery in extraordinary materials and exceptional 21st-century designs.

A classically trained goldsmith, Thomas began his career in the ateliers of the leading jewellery houses of Paris before moving to New York, where he worked with top fashion designers and lectured at the Fashion Institute of Technology. Here, he established Atelier Allure by Thomas Hauser in 1998, then relocated to Vienna in 2005.

“Paris was a hugely enriching experience,” he says. “I gained the insight I had craved for so many years: an understanding of how the magnificent jewellery I had long admired in museums and books was created. I may have honed my craft in Paris, but in New York I developed my own style.”

Thomas crafts the jewellery himself, and revels in shaping its journey from innovative concept to flawless finished form. He often includes unusual materials, such as Noble Concrete, which he developed with the Vienna University of Technology, or Niellium – an anthracite precious alloy he patented in 2020 – used in the Choreutai, a series of 12 rings (right, above). Platinum or titanium pieces also feature, in union with brilliant gems, as shown in (opposite, clockwise from top left) Contours rings, Cascade earrings, Cesar bracelet and ring, Equinox ring and Le Toit ring (right, below).

“The craftsman in me is always experimenting and the artist in me is always searching,” says Thomas. “Experience has given me confidence in the craftsman to realise the artist’s vision. The challenge, and fun, is in pushing boundaries and testing the craftsman to become ever more accomplished. Nothing alive is ever finished.”

Thomas thrives on the inspiration he draws from the living world around him. His approach blends classic design principles with a distinctive, novel character. It has attracted a loyal clientele and earned him Red Dot Awards, an iF Design Award and Good Design Awards, among others.

“It’s good to begin jewellery design from a classical perspective,” says Thomas. “It provides a solid foundation for crafting original and timeless works of art. My pieces are like miniature sculptures so, when I’m designing them I take a multidimensional approach that considers artistic beauty, design form, and how the piece will complement and connect with the wearer.

“For me, the joy isn’t in crafting a valuable possession, it’s in creating something to behold and enjoy,” he continues. “Its monetary value is immaterial compared to the pleasure derived from creating, and wearing, an exquisite piece of jewellery with which you feel a connection. What is truly important is to be in beauty’s company.” His belief is increasingly shared across the luxury sector, which is seeing customers’ tastes shift towards brands with an authenticity with which they feel they have a personal affinity.

Alongside his own collections, Thomas creates bespoke pieces, collaborating closely. “Bespoke designs naturally evolve in response to a client’s participation. We become a team, so the final design has to resonate in both of us – to feel the excitement and connection with the final piece.”

While the diamond world’s “Four Cs” are colour, cut, clarity and carat, Thomas’s “Fabulous Four” are collaboration, conception, creativity and charisma – hallmarks for which he is renowned.